Citrus fragrances are built on the zesty oils pressed from citrus peels — bergamot, lemon, mandarin, grapefruit. Bright and sparkling, they are the oldest family in modern perfumery, from the first eaux de Cologne, and shine in warm weather. Their freshness is fleeting, so perfumers often anchor them with musks, woods or herbs.
Floral fragrances revolve around flowers: rose, jasmine, tuberose, orange blossom, iris or lily of the valley, alone (soliflores) or as bouquets. It is the largest family in perfumery, ranging from fresh, dewy petals to rich, narcotic white flowers.
Fruity fragrances add the juicy sweetness of fruits such as peach, pear, apple, berries, plum or blackcurrant. Often paired with florals, they bring a playful, modern brightness that became a signature of perfumes from the 1990s onwards.
Fresh fragrances evoke clean air, water and green leaves: aquatic, ozonic and green accords, often with light musks. Easy to wear and transparent, they are favourites for daytime, sport and summer.
Aromatic fragrances are built on herbs such as lavender, rosemary, sage, basil and mint, often with citrus and woods. They form the backbone of the classic fougère and many modern masculine perfumes.
Woody fragrances rest on woods and dry materials: sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, oud or guaiac. Warm, dry or smoky, they give structure and lasting power, and are as at home in feminine as in masculine compositions.
Amber (formerly oriental) fragrances are rich and enveloping: resins, labdanum, benzoin, vanilla, spices and balsams. Sensual and long-lasting, they glow on skin and are often chosen for evenings and cold seasons.
Gourmand fragrances smell edible: vanilla, caramel, praline, chocolate, coffee, honey or tonka bean. The family took off in the 1990s and remains one of the most popular, often blended with florals or ambers.
